Posted by admin | Posted in Log Cabins | Posted on 30-05-2010
Tags: diy, green-roof, housing, insulation, log cabin roof insulation, logcabin
log cabin roof insulation
You’ve chosen your log cabin layout, have your blueprints, building permits, the construction financing is in place and you’ve lined up the manufacturer/builder/contractor(s). Now it’s finally time to construct. What are the steps to executing the plan?
Site preparation – An access road will be needed for the delivery and construction vehicles. The trees, stumps and brush in the building area will be removed. Dig basement excavation or grade surface for foundation.
Install water well and/or septic system – Dig water well if needed. Dig and install septic tank and drainage field if needed.
Install foundation – Install footings and under foundation piping. Install form for poured concrete foundation if appropriate. Pour/build foundation. Waterproof and insulate basement walls.
Subfloor – Install subfloor, beams and posts.
Backfill – Backfill soil around foundation and rough grade lawn slope.
Arrival of Logs – Prepare storage area. Unload delivery trucks. Sort, inventory and store logs.
Log wall erection – Construct log walls. Install doors and windows. Build interior wall petitions.
Roof – Install roof system and sheathing. Structural insulated panels (2 sheathing panels sandwiched on either side of a rigid foam insulation panel) can be used in vaulted great room ceilings. Install tarpaper, flashing and shingles.
Fireplace – Install fireplace and chimney.
Plumbing, HVAC and electrical – Install rough plumbing, HVAC ductwork and equipment and then electrical. The cabin is now ready for the framing inspection.
Concrete floors – poured
Insulation – Ceiling and wall insulation is installed
Drywall – installed with taping
Sanding, painting, staining and wallpaper – completed
Floor coverings – installed
Trim, interior doors, kitchen cabinets and countertops, vanities, stair railings, tubs, showers, mirrors, medicine cabinets, toilets, sinks – installed
Finish plumbing, HVAC and electrical – Install plumbing fixtures, appliances, electrical fixtures, outlet covers.
Exterior finish – Install decks. Install window and door trim, facia, soffets, louvers, vents, garage doors and openers, gutters and downspots. Waterproof/stain logs, decks and trim.
Finishing Items. Inspect entire log cabin and make punch list for builder/contractor. Re-inspect until punch list completed satisfactorily. Schedule final building inspection.
Is it a practice in the US to use board insulation as a retrofit under pitched roofing material?
There is a great deal of literature on doing this in the UK. http://www.xella.co.uk/downloads/gbr/broschures/M_-_Insulating_Pitched_Roofs_2010-05-25.pdf But I have never seen this done in the US.
I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2×4 or 2×6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel)
The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels?
The second issue may be with fire regulations.
The sip panels are vented depending on what thickness over all that you want. The last ones I used had 4 inches of rigid foam board then on top of that had 3″ strips every 16″ an inch thick which created an airspace. On top was 5/8 Osb. To create an affective air flow the fascia cannot plane through with the plywood at the bottom but fall just short of the 1″ space. To cap it a oversized vented drip edge is used. You must also have a ridge vent for proper flow. These panels can near 100$. You can do it your own way like I do when building log cabins by laying 2″ foam down first then lay 2×4 16 on center on top then finally your plywood. If you use CDX instead of Osb it will outlast it by 100%. Rigid foam insulation is not like batt-faced. Rfboard ins. Is used in boat hulls and even after being submerged for long periods of time will return to its original density and r-value. For obvious reasons batt ins. Will not. You won’t have a moisture problem as long as you don’t have a venting problem.
If you are using high hat lighting don’t let the cans touch your rigid ins. Tuck batt in softly around them TAKE THE PAPER OFF! By code if you have an interior wall 10or more ft. It must have a fireblock, simply a 2×4 turned flat between the studs. On your roof the ceiling you see inside, (most likely 7/8 tongue and groove boards) passes as the same. Good luck!
Stackwall/Cordwood Cottage Exterior 1